Walking tours are a great way to get your fix of a city's history. Such delights for Zagreb include:

The Cold War era tunnels. They run across the city with access throughout the area in case of nuclear strike. There are a few benches inside and pop music is played on the tannoy; on this occasion it was the wonderful Aqua's, Barbie Girl.

The 11th century Roman Catholic cathedral stands unfinished partly due to repairs after suffering through wars and natural disasters.

Decades ago Communist Zagreb redistributed the affluent buildings of the wealthy and repurposed them to be schools, hospitals and libraries.

Louise and I visited a couple of museums. In my opinion the Torture Museum can go hang but the Museum of Naïve Art is really something special.  Comprised of work by untrained 20th century artists, the paintings and sculptures exhibit real creativity in not only setting but developing skill and technique. It was the first time I had seen acrylic on glass and when reversed gives a three dimensional perception of the flat image.